Grey Skies and Gratitude

The day began under grey skies and a threat of rain.  During the night, there had been thunderstorms all along our proposed route.  However, we gathered as usual for breakfast to fuel our bodies for the day’s trek.  Some of our group looked a bit groggy from the festivities of last night, but we were ready to go.

I passed on the first 5 kilometers of the journey that included a 3-mile climb of 600 feet.  I stopped into a hostel where Lorenzo had stayed on many of his Caminos in the past.  He was greeted with hugs and kisses and I got a nice look at the facilities and also some of the Peregrinos who were getting ready to start their day.  

Twinkle and Tally Ho joined me on the bus and we rode to Foncebadon.  This left us with a 1.5 mile segment with only 300 ft. to climb to reach La Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross).  The cross is a simple structure at the top of the highest point on the Camino.  It is customary for pilgrims to bring a rock from their home town and leave it at the foot of this cross, signifying the leaving behind of past problems and hangups.  I walked the last 500 meters or so with a Dutchman I met on the way.  We talked about the world’s environment (he was an environmental engineer) and, also about American Indians when he found that I had worked with the Tribes here in the States.

I had a few pictures taken of me at the Cross and a number of shots where I posed with Simon.  Sadly, they were taken with his camera and I forgot to have them taken on my iPhone.  Oh well, his gentle demeanor and our conversation will remain with me in my memories.  After the pictures,  I took off on my own.  Twinkle and Tally Ho lingered at the site much longer.

I walked briskly (for me) down the other side of the mountain.   The views from this mountainside trek was absolutely the most beautiful that I have ever seen.  It is just indescribable. 

Actually, I had a stint of about 20 minutes where no one passed me and I thought this a bit unusual.  I came across a note that was placed on a bench by another pilgrim as a message to a friend.  I could not make out the writing but it made me think of pioneers along the old American West.

After about another ten minutes without having anyone passing me, I became a bit nervous.  Did I take the wrong turn somewhere?  I was reassured shortly when I came finally came across another of the Camino markers on a 

rock.

I reached Manjarin where the next checkpoint was designated but did not find anyone there.  I sat and at an apple and was just about to pull out my emergency phone when I saw Ignacio and Lorenzo pull up.  They were a bit surprised to see me at the check point already.  Oh, check point is ‘punta de control’ as I learned from Ignacio.  He speaks no English but I try to learn a new word every day from him.  It is our little game.  I told them that I had already rested and anxious to be on my way.  I knew that I only had seven kilometers to go but from my earlier perusal of the map, much of it was steep downhills and those are a problem for me.

I passed many dogs today.  My mythical friend Jake as always is with me and he could communicate with his brethren.  When I asked Jake what they were saying, he grinned and said “tell your human to ‘cowboy up’, the going is going to be rough today.” Jake likes his little jokes.

His friends were right.  

A lot of the trail was ‘single track’ which once again posed problems for using the crutches.  I had to use my mulettas as trekking poles which forced a lot more weight onto my heel.  As I am writing this now, I can feel much more pain than I have had since I’ve started this walk.  I have found that I am grateful for the simplest things.  Today, I found myself being grateful for a path that was wide enough for me crutches to be used.  Much of the downhill path was not only steep but shale with a lot of loose rock.  This made my going extremely slow.  My arms were more than a bit weary and I was grateful whenever I reached ground that was level.

Four French peregrinos stopped to ask me about my legs.  Mrs. Mann, my junior high school French teacher would have been proud of me.  I made as much a conversation as possible.  One of the older gentleman removed my hat and gave my head a rub, gave my cheek a pat, and wished me well.  They actually waited for me at one spot where there was water to traverse and extended a trekking pole and helped me across.  Yes, another reason for gratitude.

As I finally got closer to Acebo, our final destination for the day, it began to rain.  By this time, all of the other members of my group had caught me.  Iron Man and Hollywood had passed me long ago, as well as Repeat Customer and one of the “Chicas” who had given me a carrot along the way.  One of the Windy Cities who had been having trouble with his foot had a good day and was moving well.  His wife was far behind but also finally passed me, as well as eventually all the others.

When I walked into the into the bar, I saw the French four.  They applauded, and I blushed.

The rains came down heavily now.  The streets ran like rivers.  I thought to myself how grateful I was that I did not have to try and negotiate some of those downhills in the rain.  We finally arrived back at our hotel where we once again had a wonderful dinner and lively conversation.

  

On the Road to Astorga: Muy Valiente! Adelante!

With the rising of the sun over the cathedral near our hotel, we are underway.  We left Leon by bus and traveled around 30 miles to Hospital del Orbigo to start this stage. An older gentleman stopped to watch me as I made my way through the streets with my mulettas and he nodded, smiled and said "muy valiente."

It a rolling hill type of trek that covers a little over ten miles.  The path is mostly dirt but there is a stretch of uphill (around a mile and a half) that is over stones and rocks.  Normally, this would not be a problem but with crutches, it was a bit of a challenge for both up and downhills.

Daybreak

We left the small town of Orbigo by crossing over a stone medieval bridge.  It is longest one of its sort in Europe.  There are a total of 18 arches, and this was the site of many jousts in times past.  There is festival here annually whereby jousts are performed and the whole town comes dressed in time period costumes.

Puente del Orbigo

I have become accustomed to looking for church spires or towers as I crest hills on the Camino.  This must be what pilgrims of the past sighted as they traveled in search of shelter while on their journey.

I came upon a group of Korean peregrinos near the top of another hill.  They were staring at this strange monument to 'something.'  It looked more like an impromptu piece of camino art.  A Spaniard passed me on the hill and gave me a thumbs up and exhorted "Adelante, adelante, Siempre adelante mi amigo."

Camino Art Pilgrim

After I finally cleared all of the hills, I came to a plateau area and under the shade of makeshift lean to sat a handsome sun tanned man.  His name was David and was originally from Barcelona.  Some time ago, he had an epiphany about life and just gave it all away and set up this stand.  It is replete with water, juices, melons and other fruits and some candies.  He welcomes all that pass by saying "this is your house; take what you need."  There is a donation jar that is discreetly in one corner.  

David's Fruit Stand

I stopped and chatted with a Canadian woman who was only on her second day (started from Leon) of the camino and had already developed blisters.  She said that when she saw me climb the last hill, basically clawing my way forward with the crutches, she realized that her blisters were nothing.  She applied a little moleskin, wished me "Buen Camino" and was on her way.

As I approached Astorga, the weather had turned quite warm and the hills had taken its toll on my body.  I stopped to rest at this cross, the Cruceiro Santo Toribio.  Looking to the west, I can see the Montes de Leon which we tackle tomorrow (the highest point on the Camino).

Just beyond the Cruceiro, I spied off in the distance the spire of the church in Astorga.  It was good to see but my GPS told me that I still had almost four miles to go.

Peg met me at the hotel.  She had been there a bit over an hour already.  Some of our other group members saw me arrive and welcomed me also.  Twinkle said that she had walked with a California man who had taken my picture earlier in the day and was inspired by my effort.  I don't know.  It is rather strange to have such celebrity.  Peggy said that she knows that I would much rather have been able to do this trek with healthy legs (Yep!), but perhaps the Camino had brought me here as an inspiration for others. Quien sabe?

We will be staying at this hotel for two days.  This is a real treat and we take advantage by doing some laundry.  The european towel warming racks are great!

The group met for dinner tonight.  For the past few days, we have been on our own so these group dinners are special.  Since everyone walks at their own pace, outside of meals like this or while on the bus, we do not get to see each other.  I'd write more but I've really had too much wine.....

The Hardest Day and the Greatest Lesson (so far)

People often think of the hardest day on the Camino in physical terms.  And yet for me, today was my most difficult day and I only walked around three miles.

.

I had awoken this morning with an earache.  My sinuses have been troubling me for days now but this morning I was so congested that I literally could not hear.  Peggy talked it over with Lorenzo at breakfast and everyone decided what I should do with today's leg of journey.  I knew that there was one steep climb that I should probably bus around but no one really asked me.  This was compounded by the fact that I could not hear.  It was as if I were 'invisible' and everyone talked about me in the third person as if I were not even there.

When we went to the starting point, we were at the ruins of the Cathedral of San Anton.  In ancient times, people with a rare disease that sounded like leprosy came here to be healed by St. Anthony.  As it turned out, they were victims of a fungus found in rye, which is what they baked their bread with.  Here in this region, wheat was used.  So after a period of time, they started healing.  It appeared to be a 'miracle' but in fact it was just diet.

It had been decided that I skip this first part of the journey and I was driven to a point about a mile up the road.   It was there that I would start.  The pick up point was just through town, also about a mile. Even with my crutches, that is only about 25 minutes.  Despite this slighting of my ability I found a smile on top of one of the village's building.  You have to look closely, but there is a smiling face up there.

Smile!

There was certainly no need for me to hurry so I took detours along the way.  Below is the backyard of a little zen-like museum that I found called the "hospital del alma" or the clinic for the soul.  It was filled with books, art work, incense and soft new age music.  There was no one inside and all that was asked was for silence and a donation.  I spent a bit of time there to contemplate.

Hospital del Alma backyard

As I approached the checkpoint, I came across this public water fountain.  I was not in need of water but it was nice to see that it was available. 

When I arrived at the checkpoint, I was driven to San Nicolas Hostel, which was the end of the walk that day for the group.  They were going to set up a picnic for the others when they arrived.  I wondered what I was supposed to do for the next 2 or hours.  I decided to walk to itera, the next village.  I stopped off at San Nicolas and found the volunteer there massaging the feet of another pilgrim.  In the back of this small church, I found a guitar and picked it up.  I played the chord progression for Pacobel's Canon and the music sounded nice in the small chapel.

I followed the signs and moved on to Itera.  They said that I should call them and they would come forward and pick me up and bring me to the picnic.  I was not about to go backwards at this point.  I should have gone further to the next town but did not. 

I waited there for about an hour and forty minutes.   When the bus came, we had another hour and a half ride into Leon where we would spend the night.  And so the majority of my day was spent sitting.

Sitting....or laying down

I declined dinner or going out with the group tonight.  Not out of spite, but because I need to regroup before tomorrow.

The Lesson:

When I was in graduate school I had a friend named Tyler.  He had cerebral palsy and was confined to a wheelchair.  We were in a doctoral program together so make no mistake about it.  Though his speech was slurred and he depended on a caretaker, this guy was sharp as a tack.  We would go out drinking together and he took me to my first strip club.  One night, he asked me if we could go dancing.  I said sure, but how does he dance.  He said he would get the gals to jump on his lap and he would spin them around the floor on his electric wheelchair, a true lap dance.

Anyway, he said the reason he liked hanging with me was because I did treat him as if he were handicapped.  Surely, he was disabled, but he never considered himself handicapped.

What made today so hard was all anyone saw today was my handicap.  They never saw the man, just what they thought the man could not do.  That is the lesson.  I will never make that mistake!

Puede que tenga las piernas de un tullido pero tenga el corazon de un peregrino!

The Forest and the Friends

Unlike yesterday where the landscape was open rolling plains the main feature today was a dense and enchanting forest. The air was cool in the morning and I started out by wearing my down sweater.  Lorenzo had told me that on one of his fourteen past Caminos that he saw wolves in this forest but not to worry. Well you know how wolves often pick out the weakest of a herd (as in the one on crutches) for easy prey?  Yep. 

On the trail many Peregrinos passed me but more of them slowed down to chat and ask me about my crutches.  A family of Spainards and a 78 year old Dutchman asked to take my picture. There was a delightful mother and daughter from Singapore who were finishing up in Burgos in a couple of days and the white haired New Yorker who said she was just "drinking in the nature."  And so while I walked alone, I never really was. It is strange how just yesterday I had said that I was alone. The Camino does strange things. 

Chicho says that I am fast becoming a legend on the Camino and not just because of my cool hat.   All those pics with the crutches will soon end up on Facebook and I'll probably go viral LOL. 

The forest was dense and fairy tale-like.

And while the natural beauty surrounded me there was also smattering a of what I call "Camino Art."  These were little tributes left along the way.  I smile when I see these. 

A colorful tribute to the trail

I would like to know the story behind that poor boot

And of course there are the entrepreneurs that sell coffee, candy and bread along the way.  The peregrinos in front of me stopped for some coffee.  There was a very shy dog that belonged to the owner of the van but I could not get a picture.

Hot coffee is welcome on this cool morning

As I walked along this fairy tale-like forest I noticed little purple flowers on the pathway.  They reminded me of little stars lighting the way.  It seemed so appropriate for these estrellas to be my guide.

I arrived in the small village of Ages where I eventually met up  with the rest of my group.  However I also met up again with the girls from Singapore.  I learned that the daughter was going to visit the west coast of the US on another trip.  When her mother was inside buying a sandwich, she asked me quietly if we Americans can really smoke pot legally there *smile* 

The Dutchman that I met earlier on the road also joined me and we talked for about 1/2 hour. He was 78 years old and this was his second Camino.  I asked how it was going.  He said he was enjoying it more because he was carrying a tent.  During his first Camino, he was always worried about finding a place to sleep.  With the tent, he felt free to wander and not be so concerned about the 'next' town.  It was liberating. He asked about my missing finger and toes and then told me that he only had one eye.  He had lost one in a boating accident.  It was sad to have to say goodbye.  In another time, I could see how we have been good  friends but that is the Camino. 

We rode the bus into Burgos to a grand hotel.  I mean really grand.  I also decided it was time to find a peluqueira (barber shop).  After I was more presentable, we toured the Cathedral.

Las Chicas de Canada

El Grupo

Today’s stage brings us from Najera to Santo Domingo de Calzada.  As always we are heading west so that the sun is at our back.

The trek takes us from the city streets of Najera and then primarily through the rolling hills of the farm rich plateaus where we experience the fertile grape vineyards that give rise to some of the best wines in Spain. The sun was out but the vineyards were muddy which caused a bit of a sticky problem with the crutches.  However, the vines were thick with grapes and it was a sight to behold.

Muddy ! 

As I approached a crossroads in the vineyards, I saw my friend Valerie emerging from the vines.  I wondered if she had taken a wrong turn but it was just that she needed to get off the road to use the "facilities."  She took this picture of me.

We walked together for a bit but then parted as she quickened her pace.  My plodding along with my crutches made for many opportunities with other peregrinos who inquired about my situation.  Three young French kids chatted with me a while and were quite impressed.  They then took turns rubbing my shoulder.  I'm not sure, but I felt sort of like a mascot and they were rubbing me for luck.

This stretch of road was more conducive to cycling and apparently quite of few folks make this trek via their bikes.  There was even two runners who were running the Camino with a bike person for support.  After we left the vineyards, the landscape was rolling plains.  There were ups and downs and ups and downs.  I was thinking that this part of the trek was like a metaphor for life.

Before the first of the longer hills, I took a break with one of my new Canadian friends.

Galen with one of the "Chicas"

And the slow rolling hills came one after another until finally as I came to the top of one hill, the town of Santo Domingo appeared.  This was a welcome sight but it was still about two miles away.

Santo Domingo in the distance

I have not really talked much about our group.  Perhaps it was because I spend so much of my time alone because of my pace.  Peggy, in the meantime, can walk with many of the others along the trail and chat.  There are 15 of us all in all.  During my walk today I came up with nicknames for all of them.  If any of them are reading this now, they can try to figure which one is their name.  They are "Las Chicas" de Canada, Iron Man and Hollywood, Tally Ho, Twinkle, Windy Cities, Repeat Customer, and Southern Comforts.  And of course, there are our three excellent guide/driver.  They are truly top notch.

Chicho, Ignacio y Lorenzo

We got together for our first real group dinner and after too much wine and great food, we bonded.

Salud

The Internal Journey and Walking with St. Francis

Today's stage is from Cizur Menor to Santa Maria de Eunate (15 km / 9.3 mi). While a shorter route than yesterday's hike, the first half is all uphill to Alto del Pedron where the metal sculptures are.  As I mentioned yesterday I needed to skip this portion because of my legs.

Therefore I took the bus to Urtega and walked to the cathedral in Eunate where I  made arrangements join Peggy. Fortunately the bus made a stop at Alto del Pedron so that I could get a pic of the sculptures.  That's me holding my hat since the wind was furious.

This wonderful shot was actually lifted from the web as it is better than anything I could take with my cell phone

Rather than just writing about the places I've seen on this trek I want to tell also about the internal journey that I am taking. The Camino is not just another hike; it is a pilgrimage and while my reasons for walking it are not religious, they are indeed spiritual.

As most of my friends know, I've had some pretty serious health issues in the last few years.  This included a touch and go near-death scenario that played out not once but three times a couple of years ago.  This changes a man in ways that are hard to describe. There is no doubt that there are  now different physical demands but more importantly there different emotional ones.

The one emotion that has been the driving force in my life since that awful time is gratitude. Everyday I am thankful to be here.  I have a new appreciation of sunsets and an even greater one for sunrises.  There is nothing more inspiring than an early morning walk and watching the sun come up.

I think the other part of this feeling is the need to live my life fully and being the best that I can be. What does being the best mean?  I'm hoping to be able to clarify that on the Camino.  I am retired and financially stable so I have the freedom now to be not only focused but also creative.

C'mon Jake.  Let's go for a walk

And so, the walking is my own form of psychotherapy.  I was telling Peg this morning how simple it was to wake up in the morning with no schedules or to-do lists. All that is on the schedule is walking.

So "C'mon Jake, let's go for a walk."  I stopped by an albergue for a coffee and made small talk with an Irish lass and a gentleman from Korea.

Always a welcome site on the camino

Coffee, sandwich or beer.  Here there were nice bathrooms upstairs

I decided to take my time today and see what came my way. I passed a slow moving snail and found an immediate kinship with it. We peregrinos must seem like supersonic jets to him, much the same as I felt when the pilgrims sped past me and I watched them disappear in the distance.

As my friend Elly writes, this is life in the slow lane

Here is a picture of Valerie, my new found friend from Canada.  She's that little dot further up the road as she zoomed past me. *smile*.  The second pic is another shot of Valerie after I caught up with her at Santa Maria de Eunate, a 12th century Romanesque church built by Knights Templar.

If you squint, you can see her!

Valerie has smiling eyes, eh?

Each of the stones from the church have markings chiseled into them. When I inquired I was told that they represented the name of the stonecutter so that he could get paid for his work.

Stone Signature

Santa Maria de Eunate

The Altar

While waiting for Peggy to arrive I came across a crawdad
in a brook by the church. My friend and I waited patiently for her.

Later we saw chickens at a house that approached us as we passed as apparently others have fed them in the past.  I have heard that this is the 800th anniversary of when St. Francis of Assisi walked the Camino. He's my favorite saint.  He was an 'animal' guy and so I looked for wildlife today in his honor.

Peg is going out tonight on the town with friends as there is a festival going on tonight. We hear that the streets will be crowded.  It is hard enough getting around on crutches as it is anyway without having to fight crowds, so I passed on this.  Also, tomorrow's stage is almost 14 miles and I'm going to need to rest up.  I have no illusions about completing all of it without riding the bus part way, but I want to give it a real effort.

Oh yeah, I forgot to tell you about the Pilgrim's Passport.  Here's a pic of mine with stamps so far.  A peregrino must be able document his travels by getting stamps from churches, restaurants, bars, hotels, etc. along the way.  The last 100 kilometers must be walked without break for buses, etc. in order to receive the certificate.  That's what I am conserving my strength for.  I hope to be healed enough by then to make that walk!