On the Road to Astorga: Muy Valiente! Adelante!

With the rising of the sun over the cathedral near our hotel, we are underway.  We left Leon by bus and traveled around 30 miles to Hospital del Orbigo to start this stage. An older gentleman stopped to watch me as I made my way through the streets with my mulettas and he nodded, smiled and said "muy valiente."

It a rolling hill type of trek that covers a little over ten miles.  The path is mostly dirt but there is a stretch of uphill (around a mile and a half) that is over stones and rocks.  Normally, this would not be a problem but with crutches, it was a bit of a challenge for both up and downhills.

Daybreak

We left the small town of Orbigo by crossing over a stone medieval bridge.  It is longest one of its sort in Europe.  There are a total of 18 arches, and this was the site of many jousts in times past.  There is festival here annually whereby jousts are performed and the whole town comes dressed in time period costumes.

Puente del Orbigo

I have become accustomed to looking for church spires or towers as I crest hills on the Camino.  This must be what pilgrims of the past sighted as they traveled in search of shelter while on their journey.

I came upon a group of Korean peregrinos near the top of another hill.  They were staring at this strange monument to 'something.'  It looked more like an impromptu piece of camino art.  A Spaniard passed me on the hill and gave me a thumbs up and exhorted "Adelante, adelante, Siempre adelante mi amigo."

Camino Art Pilgrim

After I finally cleared all of the hills, I came to a plateau area and under the shade of makeshift lean to sat a handsome sun tanned man.  His name was David and was originally from Barcelona.  Some time ago, he had an epiphany about life and just gave it all away and set up this stand.  It is replete with water, juices, melons and other fruits and some candies.  He welcomes all that pass by saying "this is your house; take what you need."  There is a donation jar that is discreetly in one corner.  

David's Fruit Stand

I stopped and chatted with a Canadian woman who was only on her second day (started from Leon) of the camino and had already developed blisters.  She said that when she saw me climb the last hill, basically clawing my way forward with the crutches, she realized that her blisters were nothing.  She applied a little moleskin, wished me "Buen Camino" and was on her way.

As I approached Astorga, the weather had turned quite warm and the hills had taken its toll on my body.  I stopped to rest at this cross, the Cruceiro Santo Toribio.  Looking to the west, I can see the Montes de Leon which we tackle tomorrow (the highest point on the Camino).

Just beyond the Cruceiro, I spied off in the distance the spire of the church in Astorga.  It was good to see but my GPS told me that I still had almost four miles to go.

Peg met me at the hotel.  She had been there a bit over an hour already.  Some of our other group members saw me arrive and welcomed me also.  Twinkle said that she had walked with a California man who had taken my picture earlier in the day and was inspired by my effort.  I don't know.  It is rather strange to have such celebrity.  Peggy said that she knows that I would much rather have been able to do this trek with healthy legs (Yep!), but perhaps the Camino had brought me here as an inspiration for others. Quien sabe?

We will be staying at this hotel for two days.  This is a real treat and we take advantage by doing some laundry.  The european towel warming racks are great!

The group met for dinner tonight.  For the past few days, we have been on our own so these group dinners are special.  Since everyone walks at their own pace, outside of meals like this or while on the bus, we do not get to see each other.  I'd write more but I've really had too much wine.....