A Pilgrim's Blessing: Roncesvalles to Alta Erro

We left Pamplona early in the morning by bus to go to St. Jean Pied du Port.  This is the 'traditional' starting point for the Camino Frances and where Peggy started her ascent.  I wanted a chance to see this and get a feel for the energy of the town.  We went up the hill (everything in this part of the country has a hill to go up) to the Pilgrim's Office, a modest little room staffed by volunteers.  The town itself is quite picturesque.  We had lunch there and then got onto the bus for Roncesvalles, where we would start our Camino together.

At Roncesvalles, we attended the Pilgrim's Mass at the Real Colegiata de Roncesvalles.  Although I could not understand most of the service (in Spanish, of course), it was very moving at the end when the priest asked all the peregrinos to step forward and receive a special blessing.  As we all crowded forward, I looked at my fellow pilgrims and felt a sense of kinship with them.  They had come from all over the world and there was a look of hope, of spiritual awakening and also a bit of anxiety on their faces.  There were tears in some of their eyes, including mine.  I am not Catholic, but you had to have been there.

There was a threat of rain this morning but we were prepared.  We posed in front of this sign for effect but although we are going all the way to Santiago, we are only walking about 250 km.

My actual distance will be less.  How much less I wasn't sure.  The crutches (muletas) are still new to me and while the pain in my heel has subsided, it is definitely still there and weight bearing is still not possibility.  Although I had walked 7.5 miles in San Sebastian, that was on level ground, in sunny weather, and paved roads.  I would be facing hills, rocky paths and slick going because of rain.  Once again, I had to readjust my thinking on the what was possible.  Of course, Peggy walked her own Camino, which is the way it should be. When we meet at the end of the day, we share our stories.

As I have done for every walk that I've taken in the past five years, I started this one with my now mythical walking companion, Jake.  Internally, I say "C'mon Jake, Let's go for a walk...."  And the first step takes place.

The hills were tough!  Below is a pic of me climbing a hill out of one of the small towns that was quite steep.  Little did I know that I was just going through the easy part.  This cobblestone pathway soon turned into rock and shale and never relented in its steepness.  It took me over forty-five minutes to complete this grade.  I had to use my muletas like trekking poles to help pull me up.  Meanwhile dozens of peregrinos passed me on the narrow path.

I was heartened as encouragement came to me in english, french, german, spanish, basque, hungarian, japanese and korean.  Four french priests were hiking together and they turned and gave me a blessing for my journey.  A physical therapist from the UK gave me tips on using the crutches.  A Chinese woman touched me on the arm and asked if I was okay, and then wished me "Bon Chance."  A Canadian woman asked in plain astonishment "What are you doing here?"

When I saw this scene at the top of one of the hills, I knew what I was doing here.

I arrived at Alta Erro in the rain.  All in all, I walked 9.0 of the 11.2 miles.  I caught the bus between two towns where I had been advised the trek was steep, wet and treacherous for someone on crutches.  No macho craziness here.  I need to save myself for those last 100 km into Santiago.

I already know that tomorrow's stage is over Alto del Pedron where the famous metallic sculptures of Peregrinos stand overlooking the mountains.  It is such an iconic part of the Camino that I really wanted to see and touch it.   It is a pity, but I will probably have to take the bus around this part for it is too steep for these poor old legs.  Jake will understand.